Ferguson TED20 - Replacing PTO Seal and Bearing Video

Ferguson TED20 - Replacing PTO Seal and Bearing Video - Transcript

Hi everyone and welcome back to Waterhouse Forde which for what is our 60^th video on the restoration of this Ferguson whilst we fear we've done a few videos and a few other topics as well but nevertheless 60 videos.

So in this video firstly I'm on my own, my wingman has started to go off to a birthday party apparently that's more exciting than restoring a Ferguson TD 20. Nevertheless also got a relatively short and quick and easy job to do today, I hope so anyway, which is replacing the oil seal and the bearing on the end of the PTO shaft so right at the back and that's obviously in preparation for putting hydraulic pump back when put the hydraulic pump back then obviously we want to be able to slide the PTO shaft in as well pretty much at the same time.

And if you recall a number of videos back when we removed PTO shaft there was evidence of that seal having been leaking which needs to be quite a common problem with the Ferguson's in fact with many tractors I believe and I think it’s if you just think about it it's the

dynamics and the physics of the other thing, you've got that seal and that shaft sitting around the very bottom of a pretty substantial transmission case and a diff housing with the fair amount of oil sitting behind it. And of course you've got a rotating shaft in there which also spent a lot of its time basically standing still. You know that if you're using your PTO all the time then fine but if you're not, and many people don't, and of course that seal is going to get a very slight indentation in it where that, where that shaft is resting all the time and that allows the oil just to just to see seep out. Typically it's not going to be a torrent but enough to to be a pain so yeah we're gonna do that.

I'll walk very quickly though right at the start. Also good I've got a short clip you remember last week when we restored the hydraulic pump right at the very end I managed to break a circlip, I have a replacement now and I'm gonna very quickly show you putting that back in and put in that control valve back in, and that will be the completion of the, hydraulic pump.

So yeah I'll pop that in right at the very start just to just to finish that off and then we'll move on to the PTO shaft as I said. Yes I hope you enjoy it let's get started. Right now if you recall from the previous video we were just finishing off the hydraulic pump and needing to put this shop back in the back of the control valve and managed to break the circlip. So I managed to get a replacement circlip, I hope it's the right size and hopefully we can now get it put back in.

Make sure that's gripped it properly on the pliers, we can get that, just ease that in, there we go just like that, and that means that's nicely, make sure it's nice and firm, which it seems to be. So as far as I can tell this is in the groove all the way around so that's a good thing. Now we want to make sure that we clean this piston off nicely we don't want any dirt going in there and scoring either the piston or the ball so we just give that a very good clean.

Okay so we'll just pop this release valve out again, and what I'm going to do is just pop a

little bit of oil in this sleeve make sure that that's properly lubricated.  I will also just put some oil onto this piston, to the valve itself.

Now when you put this in basically you have to get this this, is a square, as you can see a square stock you've got to get that into the yoke at the back, that has a corresponding square Hole,  if you think it that way. And you kind of just have to jiggle it until and turn it

until it goes in. It is it is a bit of a fiddle because you've got no way of guiding it at the back here. There we go. And that basically just sits in there, runs backwards and forwards.

Now if we, what I'll do is I'll try and turn the pump and you should see that oscillating.

Basically that's what it does, and just stops it from seizing so that's a good thing. That's done. Right the next job is to put this release valve in or relief valve. I'm going to just oil it a little bit just so again the tractor is going to be standing for a while yet before we have it running so just want to make sure everything is well lubricated and we don't have any problems when we start it up. So that just pops in there, remember to put your shield on that just stops it

blowing down. We've spoken about that a couple of times and just nip that up.

Okay and that is the hydraulic pump now ready to go back on the tractor, completely restored, rebuilt and that will operate now hopefully optimally. Everything seems have gone back, well, all the parts fitted well no real concerns with that. Obviously we'll give it one final oiling before we before we actually close it up just to make sure, but that is for all intent and purposes ready now and I'm really happy with that job as well. Again the parts supplied by

Anglo Agriparts all fitted perfectly. Well there we go.

Ok, so back at the vice now, got the PTO shaft just loosely in the in the vice just to hold it. Now all you've got you've got a snap ring at the back here that needs to be taken out so we'll just try to gently open that, and it looks like it's going to need a little bit more encouragement.

Make sure that you're wearing safety glasses when you're doing this. You don't want that, if that snap ring breaks, shatters, it could hit you in the eye, that clearly wouldn't be a good thing.

Okay I got it out of the groove now you know hopefully it will start up just like that, there you go. Put that to one side you're going to need that again. Okay now we've got that snap ring out you turn this over and there is another snap ring in the back here which I think you can see here .Now that is a an old top which you have to take out with a plyer, with a screwdriver. So basically you, you kind of have to use two, two screwdrivers, one to pull it away from the edge and the other to get underneath it.

Make sure you're wearing safety glasses. There we go. So you can see there that they're starting to lift so we just ah pop back in. There we go. So we'll just put that screwdriver there to stop it from going back in again, and then we gently twist that and it's out there you go. We'll keep that cuz we're gonna need that again. Right now we'll just put a block of wood on

the vice there. There you go so that pops out we got the bearing still on the shaft, and that is a little bit grindy so it's a good thing to get that changed. 

What you can see on here is basically where the oil seal has been running now look that surface is not too bad there's a little bit of pitting there and that's probably why it was leaking so this surface will just need to be polished up gently and then we'll fit the new seal and that should sort that out.

Now with the oil seal just checking here so we've got another one of those snap rings in there, now it looks like this is one of the original seals it’s the old,  it's leather and felt. There we go. Now that is a very old leather and felt bearing right we'll get that cleaned up and we'll then also take a look at the shaft. 

There, just a little bit of heat on that ring is enough to get it going and then that should pop straight out now.  And obviously we’ve got a piece of wood on the floor that the shaft can

drop on to so that it doesn't damage anything. Right I've cleaned everything; so we got everything nice and clean, cleaned out this, cleaned these grooves inside, made sure there's nothing in there that's going to stop those clips from going back in. Check for burs, especially on this face here where it needs to seal with the gaskets gonna go. That's all nice and smooth so that was good.

And I did check the threads with the, where the cap goes in there's a little bit of damage on the very first thread there, looks like corrosion but the cap goes on fine so I'm gonna leave that as it is. This retaining ring that goes above the bearing you can that it, you can see there somebody's actually tried to hit it with a chisel at some point which is a bit strange. I think they might have thought that it goes the other way and they were trying to trying to knock it off the other way, but anyway of what I've done I popped it in my lathe and just polished the surface all the way around there is still a little you know very, very minor amount of pitting over there which I just can't seem to get out, unfortunately not without taking a lot more still metal off which I don't really want to do.

So what I've done is I’ve polished it up as best I can took it down to 600 get, sorry 600 grit with oil with duck oil just to keep that nice and keep it lubricated, then I just gently smooth the inside as well just make sure there's no sort of rough edges or burs or anything so I think that's going to be okay and then the shaft I've just basically cleaned it up, made sure, little bit of paper left there, there just made sure there's no dirt on there and that's really to, to take the

bearing and and then go back into the seal so that's good.

Right now in terms of parts, so again supplied by Anglo Agriparts, we've got the gasket so that's A67803 now actually we, if you recall from the hydraulic pump video we actually get this gasket in that kit as well so I'm actually going to save that one and, and rather than use it but if you're if you're just doing this job then obviously you would need one and so remember that A67803 is the gasket for the PTO housing which is basically this one here.

Next we've got the, the bearing which A66952 and that's the open bearing type you can see, there we'll open it up in a second, you see there's the open bearing top. Now there is another option where you can basically buy a sealed bearing and then just remove the cover which is facing the oil, in other words one on the inside, and that will allow the oil to get in and keep that lubricated. But this is the original style which is action bearing and then we've got the seal which A59322 and I'll open that up in a minute but that's a modern seal not the leather and felt one, that's the rubber and spring I imagine.

So we'll get that done in a minute and get to sort put back together. So now, because we need to be hammering and pushing unfortunately I can’t do it on this workbench, because this workbench isn't strong enough for that so we will have to go back over to the vice but I just wanted to show you all parts now ready,  nice and clean and ready to pull it all together. So we'll, we'll head over to the other side and get that done.

Right so back at the workbench so first thing we want to do is get this clip back in and that's got to go down in the center group so that's what's first out first one down from this side, second one down from the other side.

Right now once you get it in its then hopefully just a case of guiding the end in into the groove and then twisting. Just gone past, tap it in from the side.So the end is well it's very close to the to the groove I want to try and get the other side closer to the groove as well. There you go, so that one's just popped in so I just tap this side and it should, then there we go, so that's in. Okay now the oil seal the open side goes towards the oil the lips side goes out, so basically you've got to go this way in.

Now before we put it in just to help it we're gonna put a little bit of oil on the outside it doesn't need well it certainly doesn't need a lot and it doesn't need any sort of sealant or anything like that we'll just put a little bit of oil really just to help it to slide into place it's obviously a nice tight fit and doesn't need any help to seal it if you see what I mean. So, I’ve got that roughly in position, now what I'm gonna do is just gently tap it till it’s starts,starts to go.

The idea is together to go as flat or straight as possible. There we go so that's pretty much

straight now and it's just started to go, and I’ll just tighten that vice just to grip this.

Now we should be able to tap it in just keeping it straight all the time. And you'll feel when it hits that spring, spring clip it it's pretty obvious when it goes in. Okay now that's quite a bit lower, that's gone down a bit lower than the old one obviously the old one was a leather one, a leather and felt and obviously it needs a bit more space. I'm told that this although it's thinner I mean obviously sits in the same place because of the circlip but yeah because it, because of its design it doesn't need to be as fat so because they don't make it that fat, so just keep everything clean.

Right so that's the seal that's now ready we'll put that to one side. So the next job is to get the bearing onto the shaft.  Now the easiest way to do that obviously is to grip the shaft in the vice. So a little bit of oil again. Now sadly I don't yet have the right adapters for the hydraulic press to be able to press this on so what I'm gonna have to do is just tap it on. Which you know if you don't have a press this is the way to do it essentially.  You can tell that it's hit the bottom because the oil will spray out all over you and it sounds different as well.

Right next is obviously this ring, now this is the ring that holds a bearing in place but it's also the ring that the oil seal runs on which is why I wanted to polish it like that. So yeah we'll just tap this on same way. And you'll feel when it's on, again very easily.

Right next job is to get this into the housing and really that's just a case of pushing it into the seal and then getting the bearing into the housing. So we'll just get that supported by the vice. Put a lot a fair amount of oil on this seal. And just give it a good spread and then I'm going to put some on here as well, on this face as well.

Okay then it's just a case of guiding it in, giving it a bit of a twist as it goes in, and there you go. Now we just need to put this ring on, a snap ring. And this is a little bit more challenging,

because we basically have to feed it in and down at the same time. Now I'm going to just grip it in the vice. Now what I'm hoping is if I can get this end in.

Right that seems to have gone in, I'm just want to check it make sure is actually sitting in the groove and that is level, which it seems to be.

Let's check this side here. Now, one thing to check or one way to know that it's in, I’ll just show you a little trick that I was taught - if it's in the groove you should be able to turn it. Obviously it's not easy but it should turn, do you see how it's turning? Now if it wasn't in the groove that would be a lot more difficult in fact almost impossible and in fact if you managed to turn it and it wasn't in the groove it would most likely pop out so you'd see it straight away. Now before we carry on I'm just going to pop some grease onto this bearing, you don't really need to because of course this sits inside the transmission case and it's immersed in oil all the time. However because this tractor is being restored top to bottom and it's going to take a number of months for us to complete that I don't want this bearing being dry. So what I'm doing is just pushing a little bit of grease in there, it's not going to do it any harm when the oil you know when you're finished or when we fill the transmission case in the oil comes and meets with a grease it'll basically just melt the grease and well once it gets up to temperature it'll melt the grease and it will be well. Either way the two are perfectly compatible with each other so there's no issue. Just a little bit in there, just to lubricate everything and give it a bit of a twirl.  And that should do it. So yeah no harm in putting a little bit of grease on there just to give it a bit of a kickstart.

Final piece is just to put this snap ring on this side, now all that the snap ring is doing is preventing the shaft from pushing back out, which there’s no reason why it should to be honest. So we'll have to use the plyers. The last little bit is always the worst. There we go.

And again because it can move you know it's in the groove. Well that's it. That is replacing the bearing and the seal on the PTO shaft and obviously this rear housing. At the other end the PTO shaft is supported by the hydraulic pump. And you will recall that phosphor bronze bush that we put in the pump that rides on the shaft over here and then this runs through the pump obviously the pump is engaged with it but also that fits into the final drive, oh sorry, the auxiliary drive on the gearbox and that's what essentially turns the shaft.

Well look I hope that was helpful, I hope that you if you know that your seal is leaking or your bearing needs replacing you can see now it's not a big job, it's not difficult, it's something that anybody can do with was relatively basic tools, and of course all the parts are available from Anglo Agriparts who sponsored, sponsor our channel and sponsored the parts for this job so obviously we'd appreciate it if you would support them, give them a call, go on their website and order your parts from them.

Okay everybody thanks again for watching and we'll see you on the next one.

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